Tuesday, April 9, 2013

2013-08 Paris




I saw Sandra Bullock in an Indian restaurant in the 10th last evening. Her French is excellent. In a conversational lull with the gentleman at her table I whispered Bonsoir Mme. Bullock. She stared right through me and not wanting to blow her cover, I turned discretely away.

And several years ago when he was reported to be dying in a Virginia hospice, I encountered Art Buchwald in the 3rd. “Hi Artie,” as we passed and he doffed his casquette in my direction.

It pays to be observant.

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As I waited for the 61 bus to take me in the proper direction (having hopped on one heading the wrong way) I was confronted by several hundred middle schoolers noisily exiting a Lycee. Most American schools are tucked away and those departing enter school busses to drop them on corners where suburban mothers gather in clumps exchanging news of the day and awaiting their progeny. But in Paris, and most large cities I suppose, schools exist in the thick of it all and students ride public transportation to and fro.

At this stage of life the routine is similar the world over, the age of almost but not quite enlightenment. Girls gather in a tight giggly nuclear knot, while boys (the electrons) flit about the periphery looking nervous, talking loud, and punching each other on the shoulder. Fission will soon occur!

But as there are always gradients in maturity and behavior, I notice two of the more “advanced” jeune filles (scientists might call them “fast neutrons”) staring with great intensity at a garcon of some development himself, hair combed over eyes and trendy sweater as opposed to the rowdy rag-tag appearance of the whirling electrons.

He is trying not to return the stares, but he can’t help himself and his head keeps involuntarily snapping back each time he turns away. This is a phenomenon known in pediatric circles as “the tic of teen awakening.” I crossed the path separating them to board the bus and the electricity crackled my hair.

 
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The friend whose apartment in which I am squatting keeps a menacing aluminum rod next to her bed in the event of unwanted intrusion. I have taken to keeping the remnants of a day old baguette, less lethal but no less intimidating were its use required.

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Yes I know I am supposed to attach those annoying accents on top of French words, but I’m afraid if I modify my keyboard to French I’ll never be able to change it back. Decades ago while spending some time in Dusseldorf, I joined a radical movement to ban the umlaut, a German language accent that causes foreigners to gurgle and suck air up their noses with occasional unpleasant results.

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 “Senor Del Regno? Hi, this is Jorge…Jorge Bergoglio, yeah, yeah, the Pope. Listen, I want to cancel my newspaper subscription.” Can you believe this guy? A genuine, down-to-earth, simple, humble, human being in a position of power? Might this begin a trend among the elite of the planet? Naaaahhh. I’m not Catholic, but you gotta love this man.
 
I sense a change in the air. Bientot.

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