Thursday, August 22, 2013

2013-19 Albuquerque



My student obligation behind me for the moment, I am passing the week as an instructor. Teaching is harder but more fun and you rarely doze off while teaching.

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“Back and forth.” Shouldn’t it be “forth and back?” Well perhaps not if it’s a government program.

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While discussing geopolitics with an old acquaintance of long duration, the thought occurred that politicians honestly seeking solutions – Reagan and Clinton come to mind, are positive forces moving the country forward. While the “in-your-face” crowd usually creates stagnation or worse. I can think of at least one from both political parties.

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There is a weed (not “the” weed) that grows wild in the West in large bushes that threaten to obscure sidewalk and trails. Near the Plaza this weekend a local entrepreneur has uprooted a bush, hung it upside down to dry, and was selling sprigs for $2 each. I applauded his innovative commerce but couldn’t help shaking my head at the tourists lined up to purchase.

His street office sported a hand lettered sign “support indigenous peoples,” I had to dig out my Funk and Wagnall’s to learn the precise definition, and I don’t think the Bronx qualifies.

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State employees on travel have two reimbursement choices: a modest per diem and “actuals.” What this “actually” means is that auditors recalculate allowed tips to the allowed penny, and woe onto those whose dinner receipt includes an adult beverage. These restrictions form the very tip of a large iceberg, so per diem it is for me.

This decision finds me in a modest but clean hotel in what has been described as a transition area buffering “affluent” and “never-to-be-seen-again" neighborhoods.

But yesterday at first light while stretching in preparation for my thrice-weekly run (euphemistic though that term may be – it was once a run, then a jog, now a slog) a van labeled “City Coroner” pulled up and entered a room several doors down. Not a promising sign. I normally do 5-k on the weekdays but voluntarily extended a bit to avoid whatever exited the room. Mercifully upon my return the vehicle had departed.

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I have noticed hereabouts a touch of “island syndrome.” Years ago on a family vacation in Hawaii I detected a disturbing sociological trend first manifested in a rental car office at the airport. As the family entered there came a chorus of “aloha’s”, and my young daughter was delighted to receive a lei from one of the clerks. For a moment it seemed as though the entire staff was putting on a “welcome to Hawaii” show for us. For a moment.

 
Reservation, license and insurance card entered into the computer, the signing ceremony complete, we were directed to spot A-3, “just outside the door,” by the saccharine sweet staff.
 

But A-3 housed a rinky-dinky, teeny-weenie imitation of an automobile, half the size we reserved, and a glance at the contract revealed that the price charged was that of the much larger vehicle we ordered.

 
Back inside it took but nano-seconds for the smiles to be replaced by a snarled ultimatum that “this is what we have and if you don’t like it you can stuff it.” Of course starting from scratch after a long flight with fidgety kids wanting to hit the beach (and their fidgetier father much in need of an adult beverage), was not a viable option, so we tucked our tails and crammed bodies and luggage into the clown car.

 
Driving away we opined that the glorious welcome was intended to blunt the unpleasant reality, but the scenario played out again several times as the week wore on, namely that all was sweetness and light until a concern was raised, one so innocuous as expressing mild surprise that the hotel restaurant in Kauai was “closed for repairs” and there was no other within miles.


And there is a twinge of island syndrome alive in Santa Fe. A hippy-dippy, kumbaya, love your neighbor atmosphere until the neighbor asks a question not filled with sunshine. But the humidity is very low!


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Thursday, August 8, 2013

2013-18 Albuquerque



I am this week in “Albuquirky,” so named by the residents of Santa Fe in the grossly misbegotten belief that they, and not world surrounding them, are the true arbiters of truth and light. I will be here 3 out of 4 weeks this month, taking a class then teaching a class then presenting at the State annual DHS Conference.  Whoopie!

 
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We are outraged (inraged as well)! On the eve of Albuquerque’s annual balloon festival, France (France!) has claimed to have wrested from us the one hour balloon launch record (345) by setting off 408 on the occasion of their Fete de Balloon.
 

What? The French? What do they know about balloons? OK, there was that Montgolfier fella, but that was over 100 years ago. I smell something poisson-esque. Perhaps they were counting une, deux, trois, huit. In any event, come our festival October 5, locals vow to blanket the sky with canvas, perhaps to prove we have more hot air than the French, which would be quite a feat. Vive la balloon!
 

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I am certain there are those who would rise in indignation to dispute this assertion, but I do believe that Santa Fe is the “doo-dad” capital of the planet. Virtually every summer weekend the historic Plaza is roped off to vehicular traffic and replaced with stalls, there have to be 500+, merchandising a dazzling array of bric-a-brac, mostly jewelry and painting, all “in the tradition of the west,” which to me translates as gaudy.


And in the shade of the adobe overhang along East Palace, seated on the ground, wares spread before them on blankets, rest indigenous peoples hawking baubles at one third the price of identical merchandise displayed in the air-conditioned shops a block away.


Hawking may be a misnomer. In general they appear uninspired by the commerce they undertake, and mid-afternoon often finds them dozing until a tourist attired in blinding shades of chartreuse and fuchsia arouses them with an inquiry into price. I find the scene depressing, a stark reminder that despite the Government expenditure of billions designed to improve their lot, we have largely failed.


And I cannot traverse East Palace without grinding my teeth at the transformation of address 109 from the ancestral home of the Manhattan Project into a garish emporium of gewgaws, gimcracks, and thingumajigs.
 

Those who have not yet heeded my counsel should proceed post-haste to their local library or used book shop (or Amazon for the couch potatoes among you) to acquire “109 East Palace” by Jennet Conant. Even the pacifists among you should appreciate this comprehensive account of the birth of the bomb.


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I wonder what Santa Fe will be like when winter drives away the tourists and replaces them with ski bums? I am already starting to dither upon whether to reacquaint with my skis, although the $50 “old fogy” season pass is a temptation (when I was age 58, essentially free skiing was common for those 60 and above. As my age progressed so did the threshold, but I have finally caught up.)
 

A long-ago acquaintance and ski patrol team lead abruptly abandoned the sport at 70, saying the voices get louder and the fall and bounce at 20 gets you a free ride in a sled at 70. True. And even the exercise of caution, at which I show scant competence, does not protect against the buzzed (at 10am!) 250 pound out-of-control wingnut wreaking havoc on the slopes.  Stay tuned.