Wednesday, July 16, 2014

2014-11 Paris



I don’t contribute to panhandlers (or whatever the PC designation is these days), but I do modestly support some of the many musicians that ply their trade on public transport. However, on one of the legs of my thrice weekly slog around the Invalides, a tent has been pitched on the sidewalk occupied by a raggedy street person.

He is usually sitting beside his makeshift home and unfailingly greets me with a smile and a wave as I pass. With some reservations I placed a 1€ coin in my slogging shorts and dug it out as I approached, planning to toss it into his tin cup (actually a ceramic bowl).

As I approached on my early morning slog he was groggily emerging from his abode and TALKING ON HIS CELL PHONE!!! The coin stayed put. An analog to this is the homeless that always seem to be smoking, at a cost greater than US$ 10 a pack.

He has been in the same spot since I arrived 2+ months ago, but today he was gone, tent, bowl and all vestiges of his former abode. I hope he found a better place and the cell service is adequate.

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All Paris public transport is crowded during peak commuting hours, less so these days on the Metros which can run as frequently as every 90 seconds. But the relatively recent addition of tramways that circle the city have become extremely popular and can be crammed full of humanity as they run less frequently.

Today on the T3 a group of about fifteen 5-or so-year-olds facing the crush of humanity were split by their teachers and herded onto two adjacent tram cars. The separation stunned some as they looked on in horror as best friends were split up (this was mostly the girls, as boys were preoccupied in the universal pastime of punching one-another on the shoulder).

Six stops later they (and I) were disgorged, and the unbridled joy was touching even to a crusty curmudgeon who isn’t easily touched. You would think it was a reunion of the long lost, with shouting, laughing, jumping, and pointing.

Where does all that happiness and joy disappear to as we mature?

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And on the subject of the younger set, while languishing on a bench in one of Paris’ many parks, I witnessed a 10-year-old wailing on his younger sister with a series of taunts and pokes designed to intimidate and frustrate.

As she approached the breaking point, little miss pointed skyward and shouted “Maman, regarde” (look Mama). As Mom turned away little miss kneed her tormenter forcefully causing him to fall screaming and clutching. Mama turned in horror not knowing to make of this lightning bolt. Little miss innocently exclaimed "he tripped” (Il trebucha, I had to look up the word in my Smartphone translator).

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The French are still working on the concept of customer service. They are well aware of customers, those annoying folks who invade their stores, disturbing their conversations and daydreams. The service part proves harder to grasp.

Two examples from my neighborhood Monoprix.

A shelf stocker approached with a brisk pardon as I was perusing the wine selection. When I didn’t respond with immediate dispatch she placed her hand on my arm and physically shoved me out of the way. I responded with a very loud HEY, which she totally ignored and began to restock the shelf.

The ATMs here typically spit out 50 Euro notes, and since my arrival I have been using the Monoprix checkout as a change machine, usually offering a 50 to pay a 20-30 Euro bill. Never a complaint, but today, Ingrid, my cashier looked in horror at my 50 and said she didn’t have change, to which I replied Moi non plus (neither do I).

She kept waving my 50 and looking pained, obviously waiting for me to cave. As it was early and she was the only open cashier, the line grew, and as those behind me began to grumble, she expelled a large zut, opened her cash drawer brimming with notes and coins of all denominations, made change which she thrust into my hand.

Merci, madame, bon journee. I could tell by the looks on the faces of those behind me that her reply was not a good day wish to me in return.
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This chapter is nearing an end. I'll be taking Horace Greeley's advice sometime in the next several weeks, destination TBD.